4. The remaining principal mountain of this central cluster is named variously ed-Deir, "the Convent: "Bestin," from St. Episteme, the first abbess of the nunnery; "Solab," from "the Cross," which stands on its summit; and the "Mount of the Burning Bush," from a legend that a sunbeam shoots down, supposed miraculously, on one day in the year, through the mountain into the chapel "of the Burning Bush": (so called) in the convent (ibid. page 78). In the pass of the convent rocks arise on every side, in long succession, fantastically colored, gray, red, blue, bright yellow, and bronze, sometimes strangely marked with white lines of quartz or black bands of basalt; huge blocks worn into fantastic shapes... interrupt the narrow track, which successive ages have worn along the face of the precipice, or hanging overhead, threaten to overwhelm the traveller in their fall. The wady which contains this pass is called by the name of Shueib — a corruption of Hohab, the name of the father-in-law of Moses (ibid. pages 32, 33).
At the foot of a mountain near the convent Seetzen noticed "a range of rocks of black horn-porphyry, of hornblende, and black jasper, and between their scrolls or volutes white quartz." The gardens, as has been noticed, are in sight from the approach through er-Raheh. Seetzen enlarges on their beauty, enhanced, of course, by the savage wild about them; "indeed, a blooming vegetation appears in this climate wherever there is winter" (Reisen, 3:70, 73, 87). These proved capabilities of the soil are of interest in reference to the Mosaic and to every period. As regards the convent, the reader may be referred to Dr. Stanley's animated description of its character, the policy of its founder, and the quality of its inmates (Sinai and Palestine, pages 51-56). This traveller took three hours in the ascent. "In the recesses between the peaks was a ruined Bedawin village. On the highest level was a small natural basin, thickly covered with shrubs of myrrh — of all the spots of the kind that I saw, the best suited for the feeding of Jethro's flocks in the seclusion of the mountain" (ibid. page 78). He thought the prospect, however, from its summit inferior in various ways to any of the other views from the neighboring mountains, Serbal, St. Catherine, Jebel Musa, or Ras-Sufsafeh.
5. Three or four days' journey south from Jebel Musa lies Jebel um- Shomer, which, although not quite so high as Mt. St. Catherine (the summit being 8449 feet high), may yet be said to be the culminating peak of the entire group. It was ascended by an English party in 1862, and still later by captain Palmer, of the exploration engineers. This mountain is connected in Arab legend with a romantic story of a fairy maiden's abode there, in whose honor one of its cliffs has received the name of Hajr el- Bint. The ascent is extremely laborious, but the view from the summit is extremely fine, embracing the Red Sea, the gulfs of Akabah and Suez, and the peaks and ridges between them, while Mt. St. Catherine bounds the scene on the north (see Palmer's Desert of the Exodus, page 202 sq.).
6. The rocks, on leaving Sinai on the east for Akabah, are curiously intermingled, somewhat as in the opposite margin of the wadys Sidri and Mokatteb. Wady Seyll contains "hills of a conical shape, curiously slanting across each other, and with an appearance of serpentine and basalt. The wady.... then mounted a short rocky pass — of hills capped with sandstone — and entered on a plain of deep sand — the first we had encountered — over which were scattered isolated clumps of sandstone, with occasional chalk.... At the close of this plain an isolated rock, its high tiers rising out of lower tiers, like a castle." Here "the level ranges of et-Tih rose in front." Soon after, on striking down, apparently north-eastwards: "a sandy desert, amidst fantastic sandstone rocks, mixed with lilac and dull green, as if of tufa," succeeded. After this came a desert strewn with "fragments of the Tih," i.e., limestone, but "presently," in the "Wady Ghuzaleh," which turns at first nearly due northward, and then deflects westward, the "high granite rocks" reappeared; and in the Wady el-Ain "the rocks rise, red granite or black basalt, occasionally tipped as if with castles of sandstone to the height of about one thousand feet... and finally open on the sea. At the mouth of the pass are many traces of flood-trees torn down, land strewed along the sand (ibid. pages 80, 81).
III. Comparative Fertility. — A most important general question is the extent to which this "wilderness” is capable of supporting animal and human life, especially when taxed by the consumption of such flocks and herds as the Israelites took with them from Egypt, and probably though we know not to what extent this last was supplied by the manna by the demand made on its resources by a host of from 2,000,000 to 3,000,000 souls. In answer to this question, "much," it has been observed (Sinai and Palestine, page 24), "may be allowed for the spread of the tribes of Israel far and wide through the whole peninsula, and also for the constant means of support from their own flocks and herds." Something, too, might be elicited from the undoubted fact that a population nearly, if not quite, equal to the whole permanent population of the peninsula does actually pass through the desert, in the caravan of the five thousand African pilgrims, on their way to Mecca.
But, among these considerations, it is important to observe what indications there may be of the mountains of Sinai having ever been able to furnish greater resources than at present. These indications are well summed up by Ritter (Sinai, pages 926, 927). There is no doubt that the vegetation of the wadys has considerably decreased. In part, this would be an inevitable effect of the violence of the winter torrents. The trunks of palm-trees washed up on the shore of the Dead Sea, from which the living tree has now for many centuries disappeared, show what may have been the devastation produced among those mountains where the floods, especially in earlier times, must have been violent to a degree unknown in Palestine; while the peculiar cause — the impregnation of salt — which has preserved the vestiges of the older vegetation there, has here, of course, no existence. The traces of such a destruction were pointed out to Burckhardt (Arab. page 538) only the eastern side of Mount Sinai, as having occurred within half a century before his visit; also to Wellsted (2:15), as having occured near Tur, in 1832. In part, the same result has followed from the reckless waste of the Bedawin tribes — reckless in destroying and careless in replenishing. A fire, a pipe, lit under a grove of desert trees, may clear away the vegetation of a whole valley.
The acacia-trees have been of late years ruthlessly destroyed by the Bedawin for the sake of charcoal, which forms "the chief, perhaps it might be said the only, traffic of the peninsula" (Sinai and Palestine, page 24). Thus, the clearance of this tree in the mountains where it abounded once, and its decrease in the neighbor groups in which it exists still, is accounted four, since the monks appear to have aided the devastation. Vegetation, where maintained, nourishes water and keeps alive its own life, and no attempts to produce vegetation anywhere in this desert seem to have failed. "The gardens at the wells of Moses, under the French and English agents from Suuez, and the gardens in the valleys of Jebel Musa, under the care of the Greek monks of the Convent of St. Catherine," are conspicious examples (ibid. page 26). Besides a traveller in the 16th century calls the Wady er-Raheh, in front of the convent, now entirely bare, "a vast green plain" (Monconys). In this wilderness, too, abode Amalek, "the first of the nations," powerful enough seriously to imperil the passage of the Israelites through it, and importantly contributing to subsequent history under the monarchy.
Besides them we have "king Arad the Canaanite, who dwelt in the south," i.e., apparently on the terrace of mountain overhanging the Ghor near Masada on the Dead Sea, in a region now wholly desolate. If his people were identical with the Ammorites or Canaanites of Num_14:43; Deu_1:44, then, besides the Amalekites of Exo_17:8, We have one other host within the limits of what is now desert who fought. with Israel on equal or superior terms; and, if they are not identical, we have two such (Num_14:40-45; Num_21:1; Num_33:40 : Deu_1:43-44). These must have been "something more than a mere handful of Bedawin. The Egyptian copper-mines, monuments, and hieroglyphics in Surabit el-Khadim and the Wady Mughara imply a degree of intercourse between Egypt and the peninsula "in a period probably older than the Exodus," of which all other traces have long ceased. The ruined cities of Edom, in the mountains east of the Arabah, andl the remains and history of Petra itself, indicate a traffic and a population in these remote regions which now is almost inconceivable" (Sinai and Palestine, page 26).
Even the 6th and 7th centuries A.D. showed traces of habitation, some of which still remain in ruined cells and gardens, etc., far exceeding the tale told by present facts. Seetzen, in what is perhaps as arid and desolate a region is any in the whole desert, asked his guide to mention all the neighboring places whose names he knew. He received a list of sixty-three places in the neighborhood of Madarah, Petra, and Akabah, and of twelve more in the Ghores-Saphia, of which total of seventy-five all save twelve are now abandoned to the desert, and have retained nothing save their names — "a proof," he remarks, "that in very early ages this region was extremely populous, and that the furious rage with which the Arabs, both before and after the age of Mohammed, assailed the Greek emperors, was able to convert into a waste this blooming region, extending from the limit of the Hedjaz to the neighborhood of Damascus" (Reisen, 3:17, 18).
Thus the same traveller in the same journey (from Hebron to Madarah) entered a wady called el-Jemeu, where was no trace of water save moist spots in the sand, but on making a hole with the hand it was quickly full of water, good and drinkable (ibid. page 13). The same, if saved in a cistern, and served out by sluices, might probably have clothed the bare wady with verdure. This is confirmed by his remark (ibid. page 83) that a blooming vegetation shows itself in this climate wherever there is water, as well as by the example of the tank system as practiced in Hindustan. He also notices that there are quicksands in many spots of the Debbet er-Ramleh, which it is difficult to understand, unless as caused by accumulations of water (ibid. page 67). Similarly in the desert Wady el-Kudeis, between Hebron and Sinai, he found a spot of quicksand with sparse shrubs growing in it (ibid. page 48).
Now the question is surely a pertinent one, as compared with that of the subsistence of the flocks and herds of the Israelites during their wanderings, how the sixty-three perished communities named by Seetzen's guide can have supported themselves? It is pretty certain that fish cannot live in the Dead Sea, nor is there any reason for thinking that these extinct towns or villages were in any large proportion near enough to its waiters to avail themselves of its resources, even if such existed. To suppose that the country could ever have supported extensive coverts for game is to assume the most difficult of all solutions of the question. The creatures that find shelter about the rocks, as hares, antelopes, gazelles, jerboas, and the lizards that burrow in the sand (el-dsobb), alluded to by this traveller in several places (3:67; comp. 3:415-442, and Laborde, Comm. on Num_33:42), are far too few, to judge from appearances, to do more than eke out subsistence, the staple of which must have been otherwise supplied; and the same remark will apply to such casual windfalls as swarms of odible locusts, or flights of quails. Nor can the memory of these places be probably connected with the distant period when Petra, the commercial metropolis of the Nabathseans, enjoyed the carrying trade between the Levant and Egypt westwards, and the rich communities farther east.
There is, least of all, reason for supposing that by the produce of mines, or by asphalt gathered from the Dead Sea, or by any other native commodities, they can ever have enjoyed a commerce of their own. We are thrown back, then, upon the supposition that they must in some way have supported themselves from the produce of the soil. And the produce for which it is most adapted is either that of the date-palm, or that too which earlier parallels point, as those of Jethro and the Kenlies, and of the various communities in the southern border of Judah (Num_34:4-5; Jos_15:3-4; 1Sa_30:27-31 ), viz., that of pasturage for flocks and herds, a possibility which seems solely to depend on adequately husbanding the water supplied by the rains. This tallies with the use of the word
îãְáָּø
, for "wilderness," i.e., "wide open space, with or without actual pasture, the country of the nomads, as distinguished from that of the agricultural and settled people" (Sinai and Palestine, page 486, App. § 9).
There seems, however, to be implied in the name a capacity for pasturage, whether actually realized or not. This corresponds, too, with the "thin," or rather "transparent coating of vegetation," seen to clothe the greater part of the Sinaitic wilderness in the present day (ibid. pages 16, 22), and which furnishes an initial minimum from which human fostering hands might extend the prospect of possible resources up to a point as far in excess of present facts as were the numbers of the Israelitish host above the six thousand Bedawin computed now to form the population of the desert. As regards the date-palm, has elquist speaks as though it alone afforded the means of life to some existing Arab communities. Hamilton (Sinai, page 17) says that in his path by the Wady Hebran, towards the modern Sinai, "small clumps of uncultivated date-trees rise between the granite walls of the pass, wherever the winter torrents have left sufficient detritus for their nourishment."
Again, after describing the pass of the Convent, he continues, "beneath lies a veritable chaos, through which now trickles a slender thread of water, where in winter rushes down a boiling torrent" (ibid. page 19). It is hardly too much to affirm that the resources of the desert, under a careful economy of nature's bounty, might be to its present means of subsistence, as that winter torrent's volume to that summer streamlet's slender thread. In the Wady Hebran this traveller found "a natural bath," formed in the granite by the 'Ain Hebrain, called "the Christians' pool" (ibid. page 17). Two thirds of the way up the Jebel Musa he came upon "a frozen streamlet" (ibid. page 30); and Seetzen, on April 14, found snow lying about in sheltered clefts of Mt. St. Catherine, where the rays of the sun could not penetrate (3:92). Hamilton encountered on the Jeblel-Musa a thunderstorm, with "heavy rain " (Sinai, page 16). There seems on the whole no deficiency of precipitation.
Indeed, the geographical situation would rather bespeak a copious supply. Any southerly wind must bring at fair amount of watery vapor from the Red Sea, or from one of its expanding arms, which embrace the peninsula on either side, like the blades of a forfex; while at no greater distance than one hundred and forty miles northward roll the waters of the Mediterranean, supplying, we may suppose, their quota, which the much lower ranges of the Tih and Ojme cannot effectually intercept. Nor is there any such shelter from rain-clouds on either of the gulfs of Suez and Akabah, as the long line of mountains on the eastern flank of Egypt, which screens the rain supply of the former from reaching the valley of the Nile. On the contrary, the conformation of the peninsula, with the high wedge of granitic mountains at its core, would rather receive and condense the vapors from either gulf, and precipitate their bounty over the lower faces of mountain and troughs of wady, interposed between it and the sea. It is much to be regretted that the low intellectual condition of the monks forbids any reasonable hope of adequate meteorological observations to check these merely probable arguments with trustworthy statements of fact; but in the absence of any such register, it seems only fair to take reasonable probabilities fully into view.
Yet some significant facts are not wanting to redeem in some degree these probabilities from the ground of mere hypothesis. "In two of the great wadys" which break the wilderness on the coast of the gulf of Suez, "Ghurundel, and Useit, with its continuation of the Wady Tayibeh, tracts of vegetation are to be found in considerable luxuriance." The wadys leading dowin from the Sinai range to the gulf of Akuabah " furnish the same testimony, in a still greater degree," as stated by Ruiippell, Miss Martineau, Dr. Robinson, and Burckhardt. "In three spots, however, in the desert... this vegetation is brought by the concurrence of the general configuration of the country, to a still higher pitch. By far the most remarkable collection of springs is that which renders the clusters of the Jebel Musa the chief resort of the Bedawin tribes during the summer heats. Four abundant sources in the mountains immediately above the convent of St. Catherine must always have made that region one of the most frequented of the desert.... Oases (analagous to that of Ammon in the western desert of the Nile) are to be found wherever the waters from the different wadys or hills, whether from winter streams or from such living springs as have just been described, converge to a common reservoir. One such oasis in the Sinaitic desert seems to be the palm-grove of el-Wady at Tur, described by Burckhardt as so thick that he could hardly find his way through it (Sinai and Palestine, page 19, note 1; see Burckhardt, Arab, 2:362).
The other and the more important is the wady Feirnfm, high up in the table-land of Sinai itself" (ibid. pages 18, 19). Now, what nature has done in these favored spots might surely be seconded in others by an ample population, familiarized, to some extent, by their sojourn in Egypt with the most advanced agriculturists of the then world, and guided by an able leader who knew the country, and found in his wife's family others who knew it even better than he (Num_10:31). It is thus supposable that the language of Psa_107:35-38, is based on no mere pious imagery, but on actual fact: "He turneth the wilderness into a standing water, and dry ground into water-springs. And there he maketh the hungry to dwell, that they may prepare a city for habitation; and sow the fields and plant vineyards, which may yield fruits of increase. He blesseth them so that they are multiplied greatly; and suffereth not their cattle to decrease." Thus we may find an approximate basis of reality for the enhanced poetic images of Isaiah (Isa_41:19; Isa_45:13).
Palestine itself affords abundant tokens of the resources of nature so husbanded, as in the artificial "terraces of which there are still traces to the very summits" of the mountains, and some of which still, in the Jordan valley, "are occupied by masses of vegetation — (Sinai and Palestine, pages 138, 297). In favored spots wild luxuriance testifies to the extent of the natural resources, as in the wadys of the coast, and in the plain of Jericho, where "far and wide extends the green circle of tangled thickets, in the midst of which are the hovels of the modern village, beside which stood, in ancient times, the great city of Jericho " (ibid. page 306). From this plain alone, a correspondent of the British consul at Jaffa asserts that he could feed the whole population of modern Syria (Cotton Supply Reporter, June 14, 1862). But a plantation redeemed from the wilderness is ever in the position of a besieged city; when once the defence of the human garrison is withdrawn, the fertility stimulated by its agency must obviously perish by the invasion of the wild. So we may probably suppose that, from numberless tracts, this temporarily rescued from barrenness, in situations only moderately favorable, the traces of verdure have vanished, and the desert has reclaimed its own; or that there the soil only betrays its latent capacity by an unprofitable dampness of the sand.
Seetzen, on the route from Hebron to Sinai, after describing an "immense flinty plain," the" dreariest and most desolate solitude," observes that, "as soon as the rainy season is over and the warm weather sets in, the pits (of rain-water) dry up, and it becomes uninhabitable," as "there are no brooks or springs here" (3:55, 56). Dr. Stewart (Tent and the Khan, pages 14, 15) says of the Wady Ahthi, which he would identify with Etham (Exo_13:20; Num_33:6), "sand-hills of considerable height separate it from the sea, and prevent the winter rains from running off rapidly. A considerable deposit of rich alluvial loam is the result, averaging from two to four inches in thickness, by sowing upon which immediately after the rains the Bedawin could certainly reap a rich harvest; but they affect to despise all agricultural labor... “Yet,” he adds, "the region never could have supplied food by its own natural vegetation for so great a multitude of flocks and herds as followed in the train of the Israelites."
This seems rather a precipitate sentence; for one can hardly tell what its improved condition under ancient civilization may have yielded, from merely seeing what it now is, after being overrun for centuries by hordes of contemptuous Bedawin. Still, as regards the general question, we are not informed what numbers of cattle followed the Israelites out of Egypt. We only know that "flocks and herds" went with them, were forbidden to graze "before the mount" (Sinai), and shared the fortunes of the desert with their owners. It further appears that, at the end of the forty years' wandering, two tribes and a half were the chief, perhaps the only, cattle-masters. And, when we consider how greatly the long and sore bondage of Egypt must have interfered with their favorite pursuit during the eighty years of Moses' life before the Exode, it seems reasonable to think that in the other tribes only a few would have possessed cattle on, leaving Egypt. The notion of a people "scattered abroad throughout all the land of Egypt" (Exo_5:12), in pursuit of wholly different and absorbing labor, being able generally to maintain their wealth as sheep-masters is obviously absurd.
It is therefore supposable that Reuben, Gad, and a portion of Manasseh had, by remoteness of local position, or other favorable circumstances to us unknown, escaped the oppressive consequences to their flocks and herds which must have generally prevailed. We are not told that the lambs at the first passover were obtained from the flock of each family, but only that they were bidden to “draw out and take a lamb for an house” — a direction quite consistent in many, perhaps in most cases, with purchase. Hence it is probable that these two tribes and a half may have been the chief cattle- masters first as well as last. If they had enough cattle to find their pursuit in tending them, and the others had not, economy would dictate a transfer; and the whole multitude of cattle would probably fare better by such an arrangement than by one which left a few head scattered up and down in the families of different tribes. Nor is there any reason to think that the whole of the forty years' sorjourn was spent in such locomotion as marks the more continuous portion of the narrative.
The great gap in the record of events left by the statement of Deu_1:46, "Ye abode in Kadesh many days," may be filled up by the supposition of quarters established in a favorable site, and the great bulk of the whole time may have been really passed in such stationary encampments. And here, if two tribes and a half only were occupied in tending cattle, some resource of labor, to avoid the embarrassing temptations of idleness in a host so large and so disposed to murmur, would be, in a human sense, necessary. Nor can any so probable an occupation be assigned to the remaining nine and a half tribes, as that of drawing from the wilderness whatsoever contributions it might be made to afford. From what they had seen in Egypt, the work of irrigation would be familiar to them, and from the prospect before them in Palestine the practice would at some time become necessary: thus there were on the whole the soundest reasons for not allowing their experience, if possible, to lapse. Irrigation being supposed, there is little, if any, difficulty in supposing its results; to the spontaneousness of which ample testimony, from various travellers, has been cited above. At any rate it is unwise to decide the question of the possible resources of the desert from the condition to which the apathy and fastidiousness of the Bedawin have reduced it in modern times.
On this view, while the purely pastoral tribes would retain their habits unimpaired, the remainder would acquire some slight probation in those works of the field which were to form the staple industry of their future country. But, if any one still insists that the produce of the desert, however supposably improved, could never have yielded support for all "the flocks and herds" — utterly indefinite as their number is — which were carried thither; this need not invalidate the present argument, much less be deemed inconsistent with the Scriptural narrative. There is nothing in the latter to forbid our supposing that the cattle perished in the wilderness by hundreds or by thousands. Even if the words of Psa_107:38, be taken in a sense literally, historical, they need mean no more than that, by the time they reached the borders of Palestine, the number so lost had, by a change of favorable circumstances, been replaced, perhaps even by capture from the enemy, over whom God, and not their own sword, had given them the victory. All that is contended for is that the resources of the wilderness were doubtless utilized to the utmost, and that the flocks and herds, so far as they survived, were so kept alive. What those resources might amount to, is perhaps nearly as indefinite an inquiry as what was the number of the cattle.
The difficulty would "find its level" by the diminuation of the latter till it fell within the limits of the former; and in this balanced state we must be content to leave the question. Nor ought it to be left out of view, in considering any arguments regarding the possible change in the character of the wilderness, that